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Profiling Your Next Bass Rod - Deciphering the Code (continued)

 

Action/Taper: When it comes to fishing rods, I often sense confusion or misuse of the term "action." A rod's action is synonymous with taper which refers to the degree of bend at the tip when under load. This is where the terms fast, extra fast, moderate come into play. This is also where some people describe a rod as having a nice "parabolic bend." Trouble is, every fishing rod bends in the shape of a parabola. A parabola simply describes a U-shaped bend. So describing one rod as more parabolic than another is like saying the front wheels on your car are more round than those on the back.


Confusion presents itself with baits like this, a squarebill. Depending on conditions, I'll fish this on both a slower taper medium to medium heavy rod or a faster tapered stick rated heavy to extra heavy in power

What I really want to know here is how much of that tip flexes when under load. There are established terms to describe that action. Extra-fast describes rods with the least amount of flex and moderate or regular describes rods with the most. Everything else (fast, mod-fast, same as reg-fast, etc.) is in between. The faster the taper, the stiffer that rod will feel and the more responsive that blank will be. Blank material being equal, this usually translates to more accurate casts, better sensitivity, and more reassuring hooksets.


I fished this squarebill (the Rapala BX Big Brat) on a swimbait stick rated to 8oz in maximum lure weight!

However, the faster a rod's taper, the less give there is in that tip which lessens a rod's ability to absorb last minute runs by angry fish or when that fish breaches the surface and shakes its head. Without proper flexibility in the tip, the likelihood of a fish coming off the hook during battle increases.


Jerkbaits? Give me a medium powered stick with a fast to mod-fast taper.

In techniques involving single hook baits where that hook point is concealed (i.e. Texas Rigged) or behind a weed guard (e.g. a jig), faster tapered rods are preferred because they are better able to power that hook point through the obstruction and into your catch when you swing. A solid hookset goes a long way towards keeping a fish buttoned during battle.


The ability to decipher a rod's code is very beneficial when no other information is given to you. In this case, the first three letters are the series name (Feather), followed by the configuration (casting), number of pieces (2), length (7'-7") and rated power (medium heavy)

In techniques involving a moving bait with treble hooks, where the ability to drive home those hook points is lessened due to the bulk of the bait and increased number of pressure/hook points, a rod with a softer taper is usually preferred for its ability to maintain consistent pressure and offset more dubious hooksets.


Many manufacturers also include taper in the code. In this case, IVP = Invoker Pro, followed by 7'-4", Medium Heavy, Regular, Casting. "Regular" is in reference to the rod's taper. Can you guess the best techniques for this stick?

It's a delicate balance and while there are general rules and guidelines as I laid out above, it all comes down to individual preference and the way each angler approaches everything from presentation to hookset to the ensuing battle once a fish is hooked. It just takes an awareness of how that rod, with its specific taper will support you in your goals. This is why you see some anglers using a flipping rod to fish their squarebills (for better hooksets) or a rod with a more moderate bend for punching (to help keep a fish buttoned when stuck at the surface beneath cover). Decisions on taper depend largely on intended technique, so it's important to know which technique you intend to fish with your new stick.


A rod's taper also has an effect on how efficiently it unloads stored energy from your back cast into launching your bait - the slower the taper, the longer it takes to unload requiring an adjustment to your release point

Power: Knowledge of a rod's taper alone is not enough information to make a purchasing decision. You also need to know the rod's power rating. Unfortunately, this is a somewhat arbitrary descriptor.

Once upon a time, before the advent of technique specific rods, the terms light, medium, medium heavy, heavy, could tell you something about what to expect from a fishing rod with respect to power. These days, with the number of rod makers and choices out there, not only can one company's medium heavy be another's heavy, but you also have to take into consideration the rod's stated purpose.

Is it intended for general application work or is it for cranking, big baits, finesse or something else, because a medium powered big bait stick is not the same as a medium powered stick intended for general applications or one intended for cranking.


This rod's code is lengthy. Rebellion Series, seven feet, eleven inches in length, one piece, heavy powered, fast taper - the B eludes me - and SB is for Swimbait.

Having said that, how much power a rod has is an important bit of information - especially when coupled with knowledge of a rod's rated taper. Armed with this knowledge, you can begin to formulate specific applications for the stick in question, or know what to look for if you have a specific technique already in mind. Example, if you take a "heavy" powered rod with a "mod-fast" taper, there's a good possibility you can fish both a jig and a squarebill on that stick where as if it were a medium powered rod with the same taper, there likely wouldn't be enough backbone in that blank for an effective hookset with a conventionally sized jig. Something like that might be more appropriate for throwing jerk baits and small to medium sized cranks.


Some codes are extremely brief! Wild Side Casting, seven feet, two inches, heavy powered plus

Next: Lure, Line Ratings, and Handle Lengths

 

   

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