I like to use acetone to clean bearings (and other bare metal parts) that I’ve removed from my reels, because it totally breaks down the components and additives in oils/greases.  It also does not leave any harmful residue after it dries, so rinsing is not required.  If I cannot remove a bearing from the frame, I use Simple Green to clean the bearing and other parts of the reel in place, followed by liberal rinsing in tap water.  Spray it on, and scrub the bearing and adjacent areas with at stiff bristled brush, and repeat the process as necessary.  (However, don’t get it on drag components.)  More time and effort will be required to remove lubricants and debris, and it may help to just periodically spray the Simple Green on and let it set for a bit, before scrubbing.  You can even spray/flush it into the bearing(s) with a syringe or eyedropper.  Always be sure to rinse the bearings (and other parts) thoroughly with tap water after using Simple Green and similar cleansers.

I prefer to clean removed bearings in an ultrasonic cleaner.  The ultrasonic action is very efficient at removing old lubricant and debris from components, even if shields are installed on the bearings.  It will not damage any of the bearing components, and will take less time to thoroughly clean the bearings.  Ultrasonic’s also have couple of subtle advantages that are of benefit.  The center race, cage and balls will slowly rotate as the bearing become clean, especially if the bearing is standing vertically on its outside race.  (This slow rotation between the balls and race tends to scrub the balls and wash away harder surface debris (like crushed silica from sand that has adhered to the balls).)  The small amount of heat produced by the ultrasonic will also help emulsify the lubricant.

I admit that I get meticulous about my bearings (just my nature I guess), and many others won’t often go to the extremes that I do.  I put each bearing in a glass vial (~50 ml) that has been filled half-way with acetone and then put the cover on the vial.  [I use glass because you can see the acetone get cloudy as the bearing is cleaned, glass is very efficient at transferring ultrasonic motion, and acetone will not harm the glass.]  Then I put the vial in the cleaner, and add/remove water to/from the cleaner so the level is approximately the same level as acetone in the bottles (the greatest transmission of ultrasonic waves will occur if the levels are about the same).  I allow the bearing to initially clean for approximately 15 -30 minutes, depending on the cleanliness of the bearing – periodically checking the vial for cloudiness.  If the acetone in the vial gets cloudy, I’ll replace it with fresh acetone, and continue ultrasonically cleaning it for the remainder of the time.  Next, I’ll allow the bearing to soak in clean acetone for an additional 15 - 30 minutes, and will finish by final cleaning it in the ultrasonic again for 15 - 30 more minutes.  I usually rotate the bearing between each of these steps (by putting it on a pointed hard wood dowel), to drain the acetone and check the condition of the bearing.  Bearings that do not turn smoothly after cleaning, can cleaned an additional time, but most likely are permanently fouled, worn or damaged, and should be discarded.

I have even cleaned a few reel frames with some of the bearings installed in them, in my ultrasonic using Simple Green.  I did this more as a test to see just how clean the bearings would get, and found they cleaned fairly well.  [However, I normally ultrasonically clean my frames after tearing them completely down, because I also typically inspect the reel for damage/wear at these times.]  You may want to consider cleaning your reels with the bearings installed in the frame, if you don’t use them in harsh environments, and know that wear and damage is not very likely.

If you are thinking about getting an ultrasonic cleaner, here are a few things to consider.  Get one that is large enough to hold the biggest reel frame you have, if possible.  I have all low-profile reels, and the 5” x 3-1/2” opening is plenty big for a frame.  In fact, I can clean a frame and a few other small plastic parts in Simple Green, and 3 or 4 bearing vials that contain acetone, all at the same time.  That can really save time, since the ultrasonic seems to frequently become a bottleneck when I strip down, clean and re-lube a reel.  Also make sure your ultrasonic will take the rigor of cleaning a reel, since there are some very cheap models that are really intended for cleaning hard contact lens, that are made for only 5 minute duty.  You can often get a good quality ultrasonic off the internet, but can get some very nice bargains (for used ones) on eBay.  I got mine at an auction that was selling equipment from a jewelry store, for $35 dollars.  My wife even uses it to clean her jewelry too, which I tell her was the reason I bought it!

So, what’s a good way to clean removed bearings if you don’t have an ultrasonic?  You can still do a pretty good job of cleaning bearings if you don’t have an ultrasonic.  However, it will usually involve more time and effort to do so.  Soak the bearing in a jar of solvent or Simple Green, periodically agitating the jar to wash loosened lubricants and debris out, and periodically spinning the bearing on a pointed stick to redistribute/breakup remaining grease, and repeat until clean.  You can often look into greased bearings with a magnifying lens, or can tell by the way they spin, to determine when they are clean. (A dirty bearing can take 2 - 3 hours to clean this way, and very dirty bearings may even need to be soaked over-night.)  However, the time can be significantly reduced, if you remove at least one shield and clean it.

Roller bearings will clean faster if you can remove the plastic cage from the outer race (they’re usually press fitted into the frame via the outer race and it can be a little difficult the first time you remove it from the frame).  The cage is usually press fitted, tabbed, or held with a retainer.  Just be careful, since the rollers will often come out of the cage and they are very small as shown in the previous picture.  Do not clean plastic roller bearing cages in a solvent unless you are sure that it will not be damaged.  (I like to clean mine in Simple Green.) Always be sure to rinse liberally with tap water after using cleansers and get completely dry before lubing them.  By the way, a can of compressed air (like you use to blow debris off a computer keyboard), will work great for quickly drying bearings.  [I don’t use a hair dryer because of the acetone I use in my workshop.]  When you reassemble the bearing, the grease will usually hold the rollers in place, while you reinstall the cage into the outer race.

By the way, there’s a problem with the components from the 2 roller bearings shown in the previous picture.  Can you figure out what it is? (Answer in conclusion)

I’m not associated with any of the previously mentioned products.  I only identify them to give examples of what is available.  Also, the techniques, tips, etc. that I’ve provided are what work for me, and others may do things a little differently.

Some anglers don’t have the skills, time, facilities, interest or desire to clean and lube their reels – and that’s fine, there are many good reel mechanics available to do this for them.  Others enjoy maintaining their equipment as much as they do using it – and that’s fine too.  Just remember, if you are going to clean and lube your reels, you’ll need to ensure you have the correct tools, schematics, lubricant, time, work area, and be free from distractions ahead of time.  Also, be safe when working with solvents, compressed air, etc.